Boohoo enquiry 'can't be fully independent', warns Ethical Trading Initiative

Boohoo’s ongoing independent investigation into its UK supply chainfollowing reports of poor working conditions at factories in Leicester“can't be fully independent”, according to the Ethical Trading Initiative(ETI).

The ETI has declined to complete a questionnaire as part ofthe public call for evidence relating to the review because it doesn’tbelieve the enquiry - which is being commissioned and paid for by Boohoo -is an adequate response to the issue.

“Firstly, we do not believe that an enquiry commissioned by boohoo andpaid for by boohoo can be fully independent. We would expect a wide numberof stakeholders who understand the complexities of the UK garment industryto be involved in a truly independent enquiry. Many of those stakeholdershave been working for some time to develop positive changes to theindustry,” the ETI said in a statement.

“Secondly, the narrow questions in the survey appear to be designed tofocus us on individual factories and suppliers, rather than looking at thebusiness practices that feed this environment. We are concerned that noreference is made to the responsibilities of business set out in the UNGuiding Principles on Business and Human rights which look at the broaderinfluence of a business than just its legal obligations.

“Thirdly, there is no mention of the other locations where boohoo facecriticism, such as Burnley.”

Boohoo to provide update on investigation next month

In July, an undercover investigation by The Sunday Times found thatcertain factories in Leicester that supply clothing to Boohoo were forcingsome employees to work while sick with Covid-19 and paying just 3.50 poundsper hour - the minimum wage is 8.72 pounds for those aged 25.

Earlier this week, home secretary Priti Patel wrote to Boohoo urging theretailer to “step up” and ensure its suppliers are “protected andremediated” following allegations of poor working conditions.

In a letter to Boohoo CEO John Lyttle, Patel wrote: “I am concerned thatyour response to recent reports of labour exploitation in your supplychains appears to be focused on terminating contracts with suppliers foundto have breached your code of conduct, rather than on protecting vulnerableworkers.

“I would expect Boohoo to work with its suppliers to ensure that workersare protected and remediated.”

She added: “It is now more important than ever before that businessesstep up and take responsibility for conditions in their supply chain.”

Boohoo will provide the first update from its investigation alongsidethe publication of its half-year results in September.

Photo credit: Boohoo Group media gallery